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Let's Discover Panes, 
gateway to the Picos de Europa mountain range in northern Spain

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Panes, in the principality of Asturias, lies at the north-east corner of the Picos de Europa, is the entry point into the national park for most visitors. Most people don't think very much of Panes as they drive through it on their way to Potes, and even less if they are driving through on their way to Cangas de Onis. Panes is a bit of a one horse town, a modern suspension bridge, a couple of hotels, a few hostels bars and restaurants. One small grocery shop, some gift shops, a school and a church, and not much else. After all the official population is under 500 people. It is a parish in the municipality of Peñamellera Baja.

Potes, Leibana Valey, Picos de Europa

 

Potes, Leibana Valey, Picos de Europa

But don't dismiss it so easily. there is something else here, something most people miss. If you look behind the shops and blocks of flats, you will find a most wonderful park, El Jardin Botanico de Panes (Panes Botanical Garden). When I was there in 2010 it was still under constriction. Its huge, bigger than the town itself, and a circular walk around the perimeter path is over two and a half kilometers long. The network of paths are all concrete, with small wooden bridges at intervals, crossing nothing in particular. One side of the park is bordered by the Rio Cares-Deva, where people fish for salmon and trout, and on the other side by the N-621 highway.

 

There are lots of information boards giving details, in Spanish, of the different ecosystems in the area and ones in nine languages giving details of the trees and shrubs, both old, establishes specimens and new saplings they are planting. The tree signs have the scientific names too. There are mature specimens of Black Poplar, Elder, Alder, Sycamore, Hawthorne, White Willow. , Crack Willow, a gorgeous old Weeping Willow, growing several metres from the water's edge, Ash, Hazel, White Poplar, Laurel (sweet bay), Field Maple, Clematis, Fig, London Plane, Buddleia, Dogwood, Goat Willow, Large-leafed Lime, and Wild Cherry (Prunus avium). The new trees they are planting include Winged broom, Common Juniper, Snowy Mespilus, European barberry (Berberis vulgaris), Pedunculate Oak, Beech, Holly, Hawthorne, Red-berried alder, Box, Spanish chestnut, Scots Pine, Common Buckthorn, and  Weeping Ash. The park also has a sports area with basket ball nets, swimming pool, picnic area with barbeque facilities, and outdoor exercise equipment like you often see on the beach. However when I was three the pool was out of service.

 

The Rio Cares-Deva is home to lampreys, salamanders, Atlantic salmon, otter, kingfisher and dipper. It is possible to canoe here and there are several companies with boats to hire.

Potes, Leibana Valey, Picos de Europa

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Potes, Leibana Valey, Picos de Europa
Potes, Leibana Valey, Picos de Europa

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The 13th century church, Iglesia San Juan de Ciliergo, was burned down in 1936, at the height of the Spanish civil war. Church San Juan de Ciliergo The old Romanesque church stands just outside of Panes on the road to Potes. The church was built to a rectangular ground plan. It is of medium size. There was a door in west and another in the south.  A peripheral rubblework light wall surrounding the South sides and the west. The cornice is of stone. There is a plan afoot to renovate the ruin if the Town Hall receives a subsidy of about 300,000 Euros which has been promised in order to start up a new workshop employing ten students. Their first job will be to rehabilitate the church.

Potes, Leibana Valey, Picos de Europa

Iglesia San Juan de Ciliergo.

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Panes is also the start of stage 1 of the GR-109 walking route, east to west, to Alles. In fact the GR-109 actually starts in this park at GR109 Panes Cp which is behind the Tilo Hotel. Later it joins the main road at GR109 Pannes1 from where it has 16.9 kilometers to go before it gets to Alles (If 'll' is a vowel sound in Spanish, how can you have a word with five letters and only one consonant, at the end, and still hope to pronounce it?).  From Panes it passes through Lies, Tobes, Bores, Orejuz, Mier, Niserias, and Besnes. It crosses the Rio Cares again at Mier and Niserias. If you want to walk the GR-109 from Panes, just park up behind Hotel Tilo, don't cross over the small road bridge but turn left instead, following the red and white markers, over a couple of wooden bridges until the concrete paths end and you are walking on white sand. Then go straight on until you come the main highway, turning right along it. A slightly longer but more interesting option would be to turn right at the car park and follow the river until you reach the same wooden bridge and white sand path.

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Other walks in the area include:

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Route PR-AS-175 The Jargú Path from La Aldea to Cuñaba, going through Bores, 

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Route PR-AS-191 An easy circular walk around Sierra de Cuera, starting and finishing at Alevia, taking in Ceros Martin, Pico Cabrio and El Castinar. Distance: 13.6 km. Height above sea level: (Alevia 340 meters / Picu The Paisanu 800 meters). The ascent to Picu el Paisanu" (310 m) , northeast of town, is one of the routes most frequented by walkers in Peñamellera Baja. It is located in the Sierra del Cuera. After leaving Alevia, begin the ascent, by a concrete path, which brings us closer to the antenna Llueres telephony. Then we will move on a track of dirt and stone, for the most part, that leads to the former facilities of the iron and manganese mine at Pilar. This route continues to the right and while the former mine track is running smoothly until "The Braña Pipe", where the real climb begins "the weevil", which the north face, without a road course will end with the crowning to the chapel located at the top. . The return will be back to La Escala and from there by a little way back Alevia. As for architectural heritage, consider the Church of San Juan Bautista (with Gothic elements), the Chapel of San Antonio (although rebuilt now, it seems that it could have been another of Romanesque origin, according to some researchers) Clock Tower (near the former building, constructed in the mid twentieth century) as well as several buildings of traditional character and mansions-popular Indian flavour.

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Route PR-AS-20, the Bres Route, a circular walk around the Sierra L'Argayu. The route begins and ends in Bres, Distance: 5 km. Difficulty: Easy. Itinerary: Bres - Molino de Logares - Bres - Mazo de Bres - Loutima - Bres. This route is a short walk near the town of Brescia. It is divided into two parts. 

First: Leave from the town center (church) to the Molino de Logares mill, past the old school (1911), responding to Indian architecture model. Bres has a great diversity of granaries and Cabazos, including a copy of mixing the Asturian and Galician culture. Since the school is down at the end of the village, where you can watch a craftsman making knives, go to the cemetery, where the path descends towards the mill.

Second: You leave the bar that is next to the highway, which crosses to take a path that goes through some meadows up to the river, cross the bridge and continues along the right bank of river to Mazo de Bres, which is now in ruins but you can still see the water outlet channel. The route continues along a path through meadows and crops up to Loutima, where you can visit a knife craftsman. The return is made by the same path to Bres 

 

PR-AS-208, the San Esteban Route,  north west of Potes. A circular walk through Sierra Nedrina, to San Esteban. Distance: 9 kilometers,  Route: San Esteban (240 m),  Colláu La Galabín (1000 m), total 750 meters of altitude. Easy. Park at San Esteban de Cuñaba. Just before the village, on the right there is a path that crosses the San Esteban River by a stone bridge. There is only one option, to follow up the valley, to gain the 750 m difference in level. The trail ascends a slope more or less smooth, up to Sombeju where there is a spectacular 15m waterfall. All the way south you can see the river and the Sierra de Cocón as well as the north walls of the Sierra de Nedrina.  From the waterfall you leave this wide road and to the right (the only place where you can go) begins a steep climb of about 300 m leading to Gabalín Col. Here there is a circular pond of about 3-4 m diameter. From here no noticeable good option exists, and the ascent is culminated following the route that sees easier, because in clear days it does not have any difficulty. The houses of the locality of San Esteban are, generally, small and of rural type. Next to this locality is the Recreational Area and Forest of San Esteban and the Mirador del Cuetu La Bea.

 

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Walking in the Picos de Europa - The walking here is out of this world. CLICK HERE for details of the walks I recommend together with GPS coordinates. In Spain , waymarked trails, considered as short-distance (PR) if they are less than 50 km long and can be completed in two days or less, are marked with white and yellow paint. 

 

 

 
Great Books and Maps !
 
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Walks and Climbs in the Picos De Europa
by
Robin Walker 
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Walking in the Cordillera Cantabrica: 
A Mountaineering Guide (Cicerone Mountain Walking)
by
Robin Walker
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Northern Spain Handbook (Footprint Travel Guides)
by
Andy Symington
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Northern Spain
(Cadogan Guide Northern Spain)
by
Dana Facaros,
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Michelin Map 572 Regional Spain
Asturias, Cantabria
by
Michelin
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Lonely Planet Spain: 
Cantabria & Asturias
by
Damien Simonis
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk The Highlands of Cantabria, 
or Three Days From England
 With Engravings and Photographs
by
Mars Ross
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Asturian of Cantabria: 
Early Holocene Hunter-gatherers in Northern Spain
(Anthropological Papers of the University of Arizona)
by
Geoffrey A Clark
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Northern Spain:
10 Circular Walks Around the Picos De Europa
by
Peter Ward, Trish Myers, and Terence Keogh 
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Picos De Europa: Car Tours and Walks (Landscapes)
by
Teresa Farino 
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Trekking and Climbing in Northern Spain
by
Jim Thomson, Ilja Schroder, Jim Thompson, 
and Victor Saunders
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Flowers of South-west Europe: A Field Guide
by
Oleg Polunin and B.E. Smythies 
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Birds of Iberia
by
Clive Finlayson and David Tomlinson
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Wild Spain: 
The Animals, Plants and Landscapes
by
Teresa Farino
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Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk The Birds of the Western Palearctic
by
David Snow and Christopher Perrins 
 
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Birds of the Western Palearctic: 
A Photographic Guide
by
Hadoram Shirihai and Lars Svensson
 
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk The Advanced Bird Guide: 
ID of Every Plumage of Every Western Palearctic Species
by
Nils Van Duivendijk
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Handbook of the Birds of Europe, Middle East & North Africa, The Birds of the Western Palearctic: 
A Nine Volume Set by the late
Stanley Cramp 
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
       
       
 
 

 

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