Let's Discover Dúrcal in the Lecrin Valley, southern Spain

Durcal (GPS: 36.988° North -3.565° West) lies  At the heart of the Valley Lecrín, almost halfway between Granada and Motril.
 

Durcal's location on the trade route between Granada and the coast has had a big influence on its development. Although there were people here before the Moorish settlement of Iberia, it was the Arabic rulers of the region who established the origins of modern day Durcal. Indeed the name Durcal derives from the Arabic word Quasb, a reference to the cultivation of sugar cane and the orchards of orange and lemon trees in the area. Following the invasion of the region by the armies of the Catholic Kings the town continued to grow and prosper.  In the 19th Century a tram line was built between Durcal and Motril in order to transport merchandise from the port in Motril to the town. This continued until 1958 when the line was dismantled to make way for a railway. But the promised railway never arrived.  All that remains of the tram line and the proposed railway is the iron bridge.

There are four festivals celebrated in Durcal each year.  The first is held between 2nd and the 4th of February in honour of Saint Blas, patron saint of the town.  On the day before the festival of San Blas, his image is brought down from the hermitage to the parish church.  This probably has a much older origin as this is the time of the ancient Celtic festival Imbolc, which celebrates the first stirrings of new life in the belly of Mother Earth.

On the night of Easter Saturday, the young men of the town round up the young girls and head for the bridge at dawn.  Here they hang dolls which they believe symbolises Judas Iscariot from Christian mythology but probably has a much older origin too. On Easter Sunday, families head out to the countryside with friends to eat the traditional Easter cakes.

The next festival is held on the 31st August for Saint Ramon. This festival includes Culture Week in Durcal.

And finally, there is the Matanza del Cerdo, a festival dedicated to the killing of pigs, organised by a local restaurant and attended by all lovers of good food.  Unfortunately this is no long a proper matanza due to over-regulation by both national and E.U. government.  If you arrive in Durcal at other times there is still plenty to see including the 19th century church of the Immaculate Conception, the hermitage of Saint Blas and the remains of the Arab castle situated on the Peñón de los Moros.

Gastronomically the town specialises in cereals, meats and olives preserved with garlic, red peppers or anchovies. Home made wine is also popular.  There is also the local mineral water which is believed to be good for digestive problems.  This is now back in production after several years due to a new deep water source being exploited. There is an interesting custom in the bars in this region.  Every time you order a drink they will give you a plate of food absolutely free.  Incredible but true.

There is an intriguing legend that in the Caves of Los Riscos, beside the biggest of the Urquízar Baths, there is a hidden golden cow guarded by the spirit of a ancient warrior. The Baños de Urquízar are certainly well worth guarding, and visiting, as much to view the surrounding countryside as to drink the waters of the stream. These waters are reputed to alleviate many aches and pains, and are particularly good for the kidneys. The Baños de Urquízar are situated beside the banks of the Rio Dúrcal.  They can be reached by taking a pathway from the hermitage of San Blas. These are thermal baths, with a constant temperature of 25 degrees, and with a high mineral content. Apart from drinking the waters of the Urquízar stream to bring luck, the visitor can also learn to play a local game called ‘the game of Paulo’. But take care: the local people are experts, so luck may not always be with you.

The Rio Dúrcal rises in the heart of the Sierra Nevada mountains and flows through the Torcal del Cartujo past numerous dwellings. Here too we can see archaeological sites, an old electrical station and water mills dating from 18th century.

We stayed at the charming Molino del Puente Hotel (GPS:36.9988° North -3.5730° West) which we found to be of a very high standard and the staff were very friendly, helpful and informative.  Unfortunately I can't comment about the food as, being mid-February, the restaurant was closed for holidays.  Some people have commented that they can hear other guests through the thin walls but being off-season there were few other guests when we visited.  It  would surprise me those because its an old building and the walls are thick. It is possible however that, being an old mill, some rooms may have been formed by dividing a larger space with just a thin partition. The Rio Durcal flows through the grounds and you can see the new road bridge, the old road bridge and the iron bridge from the property. What's left of the Roman bridge is just five minutes walk away. The hotel is situated just north of Durcal on the road to Cuesta de La Valdesa.  Its on a sharp bend right opposite a friendly but very smoky bar / restaurant  called Venta Puente Durcal Casa Ramon. If you have stayed at El Molino del Puente Hotel  please do share your experience with us.

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