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Camino de
Santiago, 5-35 Days, 113-780km. |
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The Camino de
Santiago or Way of St. James is a
journey of the soul along an
ancient pilgrimage route from
the Pyrenees to Santiago de
Compostela. Walk the whole way
or just a week or two, you will
never forget it! |
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Walking
in the
Picos
de Europa
National Park |
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The
Cares Route |
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Distance
Approx. |
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Ascent
Approx. |
A
liner walk from
Poncebos to
Posada de Valdeón. |
21
km
(12.5 miles)
approximately |
720
m |
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The Cares Route (PR-PNPE-3) is a must for all serious walkers visiting the Picos de
Europa. It is a medium difficulty walk including parts of both
the Western & Central Massifs. Cycling is strictly forbidden
on this route due to its extreme popularity with walkers
(you will not be alone) and the danger cyclists pose to themselves and
others on this potentially hazards track with occasional falling rocks. But don't let
the cautions put
you off, the scenery is well worth the effort and the slight risk. The vistas
are second-to-none. |
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Click
on the map to see it full size. |
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The
walk follows the route of the Cares Gorge ( Desfiladero del Rio Cares
). The high path was originally constructed in the 1950s to
service the hydroelectric
plant. The Cares Gorge is an amazing hike between the
bridge over the river Cares at Poncebos and the town of Posada
de Valdeón, passing through the village of Cain. There
and back in one day is a bit difficult for most
people, including me.
If you are two (or more) people with two cars its
easier. You can all go together, park one car in Posada
and then all go to Poncebos in the other. Another option
is for each person (or group) to start from opposite
ends and swap keys when you meet in the middle. If you
are on your one you can arrange to stay overnight in a
hotel or hostel and walk back the next day. Or you can
walk half the route, and back, one day, and the other half
another day, from the other end. |
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Latitude (degrees N) |
Longitude (degrees W) |
Elevation |
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Poncebos |
43.25770 |
-4.83160 |
220 m |
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Los Callaos |
43.25200 |
-4.85565 |
525 m |
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Platform |
43.25295 |
-4.86250 |
454 m |
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First hut |
43.25130 |
-4.87235 |
440 m |
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Culiembro hut |
43.24270 |
-4.88940 |
425 m |
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Bolin Bridge |
43.22825 |
-4.89485 |
420 m |
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Cain Dam |
43.21765 |
-4.90045 |
440 m |
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Cain |
43.21275 |
-4.90455 |
550 m |
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Wolf trap (Chorco de los Lobos) |
43.18345 |
-4.90360 |
760 m |
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Teja Oscura |
43.17775 |
-4.90310 |
680 m |
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Posada de Valdeón |
43.15150 |
-4.91770 |
940 m |
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Its best to start out early as it gets
very crowded and parking is difficult later
in the day, at least in summer. Drive up from
Arenas de Cabrales to Poncebos on the AS-264. At Poncebos you
will come to a bridge signposted to Funicular de Bulnes
and Sotres. Do not cross over it but park on
the left hand side of the road soon after
it. The route officially starts from
this bridge with a one kilometer walk up the
road before the footpath leads off to the
right. You can cut out much of this road
walk by arriving early, before 8:30 in
summer, and driving as far up the road as
possible. Don't even try it at the weekend.
If you take my advice you will turn around now, while it
is quiet, and park facing to go back down
later when it may be much more hectic. I
always park facing for a quick getaway, its an old army
habit. |
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| Click
on the photo to order prints. |
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on the photo to order prints. |
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There is a an information hut on left. The start of the
footpath is on your right opposite the hut. You will
notice that the path is man made as it
starts out as a steep climb on a cobbled
surface. Rough cobbles though, just lumps of
limestone. Soon it breaks up anyway. We pass
under a scrawny clump of fig trees after
which the track levels out a bit. The
scenery is quite open here, the walls of the
gorge being far apart |
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There seems to be an unwritten rule that you pass oncoming
walkers on the right. Not everyone observes this of course. Its all right to
pass slower walkers, always at their convenience. Remember that they may be
going more slowly than you because they are soaking up the ambiance of the
place, or it may be because they are less fit and less sure of themselves. In
which case you would not want to endanger them on these narrow paths by passing
too close to them, getting in their way or knocking into them. Their safety is
more important than your desire not to break your step. Always remember to show
them respect. If you are one of the slower walkers I suggest that, when you
hear people coming up behind, you choose which side they are to pass you on by
moving over to the other side of the path yourself. Always put yourself on the
safest side when being overtaken.
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| Click on the photo to order
prints. |
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The paint shop boys have been out making white, red and yellow marks on
the rocks to indicate that this section is a medium difficulty walk |
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There are several ruined buildings on the route. Don't mistake these for
the two huts I have marked on the map, which are in good condition and
locked. |
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| Click on the photo to order
prints. |
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| Click on the photo to order
prints. |
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After about three kilometers we start to see signs of the artificial
water channel that runs along the route and is part of the hydro-electric
installation. It has sluice gates and valves to control the water
flow. |
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| Click on
the photo to order prints. |
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the photo to order prints. |
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There are lots of lizards about this morning. We have seen loads of the
small, darker wall lizards and one of the bigger, lighter coloured
species too. |
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| Click on the photo to order
prints. |
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After about four kilometers we come to Los Collaos (520m) which is a
great place to stop for a short rest and photograph the magnificent
views. |
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Six and a half kilometers from Poncebos Bridge we come to
the first hut, and a few metres further on is a modern wooden bridge over
a small tributary stream. When we were there we could quite easily cross the stream
by the stepping stones without using the bridge, which was fortunate as it was
blocked by thoughtless people sitting on it. Lots of people were
refreshing themselves in the cool water behind the bridge. I waited until
they all moved on to get a better couple of pictures. |
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| Click on the photo to order
prints. |
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| Click on the photo to order
prints. |
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The walls of the gorge start to close in now. The problem with
this walk is there there are so many people doing it, at least in summer, there
there is no chance of a secluded minute in which to relieve oneself :-)
And now we come to a rubbish bin. The mind reels at the thought of someone
walking six kilometers each way just to empty a rubbish bin. Who do they get
to do it? And how often? If they are volunteers we must take off our hats
to them. If they are ordinary bin men they have the best job in the world,
at least in good weather. |
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| Click on the photo to order
prints. |
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| Click on the photo to order
prints. |
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Crag martins are building a nest in the rock overhanging the
path, just a few centimeters from the heads of walkers. What is even stranger
is that none of the walkers seem to have noticed, wrapped up in their conversations
and time objectives, oblivious to their surroundings. They might just was well
be walking around a track in a city sports centre. We turn a corner and suddenly the delight of a cool
breeze on a hot summer day. Wonderful! |
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Through a few stone arches, one can hardly call them tunnels, yet, and we arrive at the Culiambro hut. By my reckoning we have, so far, come eight
kilometers from Poncebos Bridge. There is no way to verily this as the
signposts here, to Caín and to Poncebos, are marked in hours, not kilometers. I
wonder about the reasoning for this. Different people walk at different speeds so any time
estimate is doomed to be totally useless. There is also a path leading off here
to Covadonga (nine hours by their estimate). That is the GR-202 which includes
the section we have just walked. |
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| Click on the photo to order
prints. |
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| Click on the photo to order
prints. |
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From here towards Cain the white, red and yellow marks change
to just white and yellow, suggesting the route has become easier and that the
Covadonga path has now gone its own sweet way, awaiting us another day. And soon another rubbish bin. I
wonder if they are both serviced by the same person or whether one walks from Poncebos
and another from Caín and never the twain shall meet. |
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The weather is clouding over now, making the way easier and
cooler but not so good for photography.
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Now we cross a series of plain, metal bridges over the River Cares,
starting with Puente Bolin. The others do not appear to be named. The river is now on our right side,
now again on our left. One of the bridges
is covered with wire as a precaution against falling rocks.
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As the day wears on, the trail becomes clogged
with walkers, many wearing trainers and carrying brand new, virginal,
walking staffs. Be warned, I also passed an abandoned, severed, trainer sole.
Boots are essential here, don't be like that poor pilgrim who had to hobble
back with bare and blistered feet. Navigating around people who thoughtlessly insist on walking two abreast,
oblivious to the sheer drop on one side, provides for an exhilarating
experience too.
I am sure for many of them its just a physical excursion and they take no time
to appreciate the beauty of this wonderful place.
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As we get closer to Cain, the trail
meanders through a series of damp, dripping, dark tunnels (a torch would be
useful here).
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Following the white and yellow marks we soon come
to the small hydro-electric dam at Cain. |
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| Click
on the photo to order prints. |
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| Click on
the photo to order prints. |
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| Across a small bridge,
past a gift shop only selling tourist junk and into
the village of Cain. Several people are bathing in
the river. |
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Walk through the village, past bars and a couple of hostels,
until we reach a t-junction were we turn left. Some
people stop in Cain for the night, as I did on a previous
occasion. If so I most certainly do not recommend
Hostal La Ruta for reasons I discuss in another
article.
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The Cares Route now follows the road out of Cain,
heading towards Posada de Valdeón. Don't blame me,
I didn't design the route, its just the way it is.
Carry on up the road, dodging traffic, until you
come to a fascinating artifact from the past. A wolf
trap (Chorco de los Lobos). It is a round tower
built into the hillside, with a opening at the back,
at ground level, through which the wolf enters, presumably after
bait, or maybe it was driven, there is a wooden,
funnel structure behind, a bit like a duck decoy. Viewed
from inside, this opening is high up, we are on a
hillside remember. So from here the wolf falls or
jumps to the floor. There is also a metal door in the front
through
which it was removed, presumably after it had been
shot. This is in a heavily wooded area called La
Carrona which is well worth exploring on another occasion.
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Next we come to Teja Oscura, and Fuente Teja
Oscura, with a sign warning that the water may not
be fit to drink. You must bring enough water on this
route as there is none available anywhere on the
path. And then a very welcome sign, our
track leads off to the left towards Posada de Valdeón.
It follows a high path through trees and is a delightful
way to end this fascinating and delightful walk.
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See
more pictures of the Cares Route >>>
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More great Picos de Europa walks >>>
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Great Books and Maps ! |
| Walking
in Spain (general) |
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Navigating
with a GPS
by
Pete Hawkins |
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Navigation
Techniques and Skills for Walkers
by
Pete Hawkins |
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Outdoor Guide to Using Your GPS
by
Steve Featherstone |
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Hiking
in Spain
by
Stuart Butler |
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Walking
in Spain
by
Miles Roddis |
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On
Foot in Spain. A Walk From the Bay of Biscay to
the Mediterranean ... Illustrated by Original
Sketches
by
John S. Campion |
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Cycle
Touring in Spain: 8 Detailed Cycle Tours
Harry Dowdell |
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| Walking
in the Picos de Europa |
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Walks
and Climbs in the Picos De Europa
by
Robin Walker |
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Northern
Spain:
10 Circular Walks Around the Picos De Europa
by
Peter Ward, Trish Myers, and Terence Keogh |
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Picos
De Europa: Car Tours and Walks (Landscapes)
by
Teresa Farino |
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Trekking
and Climbing in Northern Spain
by
Jim Thomson, Ilja Schroder, Jim Thompson,
and Victor Saunders |
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Wildlife books
and field guides |
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Flowers
of South-west Europe: A Field Guide
by
Oleg Polunin and B.E. Smythies |
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Birds
of Iberia
by
Clive Finlayson and David Tomlinson |
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Wild
Spain:
The Animals, Plants and Landscapes
by
Teresa Farino |
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The
Birds of the Western Palearctic
by
David Snow and Christopher Perrins |
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Birds
of the Western Palearctic:
A Photographic Guide
by
Hadoram Shirihai and Lars Svensson |
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The
Advanced Bird Guide:
ID of Every Plumage of Every Western Palearctic
Species
by
Nils Van Duivendijk |
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Handbook
of the Birds of Europe, Middle East & North
Africa, The Birds of the Western Palearctic:
A Nine Volume Set by the late
Stanley Cramp |
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DVD-rom:
Birds of Western Palearctic (PC/Mac)
Mac OS X, Windows 2000 / XP / Vista |
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Where
to Watch Birds in Northern and Eastern Spain
by
Ernest Garcia and Michael Rebane |
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Where
to Watch Birds in Southern and Western Spain:
Andalucia, Extremadura and Gibraltar
by
Ernest Garcia and Andrew Paterson |
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Birdwatching
on Spain's Southern Coast:
Costa Del Sol, Costa De La Luz, Almeria, Donana
and Some Inland Sites
by
John R. Butler |
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A
Birdwatching Guide to Southern Spain
by
Malcolm Palmer and John Busby |
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Wildlife
Travel Map of Spain |
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The
Golden Eagle
by
Jeff Watson and Keith Brockie |
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Golden
Eagle: Sovereign of the Skies
by
Charles Preston and Gary Leppart |
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The
Golden Eagle (Shire natural history)
by Jeff Watson and John Love |
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The
Sparrowhawk
(Shire Natural History)
by
Ian Newton |
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Other
Shire Natural History guides |
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Barn
Owls:
Predator-Prey Relationships and Conservation
by
Iain R. Taylor |
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Collins
Birds of Prey
by
Benny Gensbol and Walter Thiede |
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The
Pocket Guide to the Birds of Prey of Britain and
Europe
by
Peter Hayman and Rob Hume |
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Understanding
the Bird of Prey
by
Nick Fox |
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Other Useful Links |
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| Travel
Pics Pro - - www.travelpicspro.com
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| Add Your Link to This Page
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