Let's Walk Spain

Let's Walk Spain

Let's Walk Spain

Let's Walk Spain

 

www.letswalkspain.com 

Let's Walk Spain  
  Let's Walk Spain   Let's Walk Spain

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All photos on this website by Jack Cox - Travel & Nature Photographer - Assignments welcome

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Walking in Spain
Camino Walking Holidays

Camino de Santiago, 5-35 Days, 113-780km.

The Camino de Santiago or Way of St. James is a journey of the soul along an ancient pilgrimage route from the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela. Walk the whole way or just a week or two, you will never forget it!

 
 
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Walking in the
Picos de Europa
National Park

| The Cares Route | Distance Approx.  | Ascent Approx.  
A liner walk from
Poncebos to 
Posada de Valdeón.
21 km
(12.5 miles)
approximately 
720 m
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The Cares Route (PR-PNPE-3) is a must for all serious walkers visiting the Picos de Europa. It is a medium difficulty walk including parts of both the Western & Central Massifs. Cycling is strictly forbidden on this route due to its  extreme popularity with walkers (you will not be alone) and the danger cyclists pose to themselves and others on this potentially hazards track with occasional falling rocks. But don't let the cautions put you off, the scenery is well worth the effort and the slight risk. The vistas are second-to-none. 

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Click on the map to see it full size in a new window

Click on the map to see it full size.

The walk follows the route of the Cares Gorge ( Desfiladero del Rio Cares ). The high path was originally constructed in the 1950s to service the hydroelectric plant. The Cares Gorge is an amazing hike between the bridge over the river Cares at Poncebos and the town of Posada de Valdeón, passing through the village of Cain. There and back in one day is a bit difficult for most  people, including me. If you are two (or more) people with two cars its easier. You can all go together, park one car in Posada and then all go to Poncebos in the other. Another option is for each person (or group) to start from opposite ends and swap keys when you meet in the middle. If you are on your one you can arrange to stay overnight in a hotel or hostel and walk back the next day. Or you can walk half the route, and back, one day, and the other half another day, from the other end.

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Latitude (degrees N) Longitude (degrees W) Elevation
Poncebos 43.25770 -4.83160 220 m
Los Callaos 43.25200 -4.85565 525 m
Platform 43.25295 -4.86250 454 m
First hut 43.25130 -4.87235 440 m
Culiembro hut 43.24270 -4.88940 425 m
Bolin Bridge 43.22825 -4.89485 420 m
Cain Dam 43.21765 -4.90045 440 m
Cain 43.21275 -4.90455 550 m
Wolf trap (Chorco de los Lobos) 43.18345 -4.90360 760 m
Teja Oscura 43.17775 -4.90310 680 m
Posada de Valdeón 43.15150 -4.91770 940 m
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Its best to start out early as it gets very crowded and parking is difficult later in the day, at least in summer. Drive up from Arenas de Cabrales to Poncebos on the AS-264. At Poncebos you will come to a bridge signposted to Funicular de Bulnes and Sotres. Do not cross over it but park on the left hand side of the road soon after it.  The route officially starts from this bridge with a one kilometer walk up the road before the footpath leads off to the right. You can cut out much of this road walk by arriving early, before 8:30 in summer, and driving as far up the road as possible. Don't even try it at the weekend. If you take my advice you will turn around now, while it is quiet, and park facing to go back down later when it may be much more hectic. I always park facing for a quick getaway, its an old army habit. 

Click on the photo to order prints.
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Click on the photo to order prints.

There is a an information hut on left. The start of the footpath is on your right opposite the hut. You will notice that the path is man made as it starts out as a steep climb on a cobbled surface. Rough cobbles though, just lumps of limestone. Soon it breaks up anyway. We pass under a scrawny clump of fig trees after which the track levels out a bit. The scenery is quite open here, the walls of the gorge being far apart 

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There seems to be an unwritten rule that you pass oncoming walkers on the right. Not everyone observes this of course. Its all right to pass slower walkers, always at their convenience. Remember that they may be going more slowly than you because they are soaking up the ambiance of the place, or it may be because they are less fit and less sure of themselves. In which case you would not want to endanger them on these narrow paths by passing too close to them, getting in their way or knocking into them. Their safety is more important than your desire not to break your step. Always remember to show them respect. If you are one of the slower walkers I suggest that, when you hear people coming up behind, you choose which side they are to pass you on by moving over to the other side of the path yourself. Always put yourself on the safest side when being overtaken. 

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The paint shop boys have been out making white, red and yellow marks on the rocks to indicate that this section is a medium difficulty walk

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There are several ruined buildings on the route. Don't mistake these for the two huts I have marked on the map, which are in good condition and locked. 

Click on the photo to order prints.
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Click on the photo to order prints.

After about three kilometers we start to see signs of the artificial water channel that runs along the route and is part of the hydro-electric installation. It has sluice gates and valves to control the water flow. 

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Click on the photo to order prints.
Click on the photo to order prints.
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There are lots of lizards about this morning. We have seen loads of the small, darker wall lizards and  one of the bigger, lighter coloured species too.

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Click on the photo to order prints.

After about four kilometers we come to Los Collaos (520m) which is a great place to stop for a short rest and photograph the magnificent views. 

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Six and a half kilometers from Poncebos Bridge we come to the first hut, and a few metres further on is a modern wooden bridge over a small tributary stream. When we were there we could quite easily cross the stream by the stepping stones without using the bridge, which was fortunate as it was blocked by thoughtless people sitting on it. Lots of people were refreshing themselves in the cool water behind the bridge. I waited until they all moved on to get a better couple of pictures.

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Click on the photo to order prints.
Click on the photo to order prints.
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The walls of the gorge start to close in now. The problem with this walk is there there are so many people doing it, at least in summer, there there is no chance of a secluded minute in which to relieve oneself :-)  And now we come to a rubbish bin. The mind reels at the thought of someone walking six kilometers each way just to empty a rubbish bin. Who do they get to do it?  And how often? If they are volunteers we must take off our hats to them. If they are ordinary bin men they have the best job in the world, at least in good weather. 

Click on the photo to order prints.
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Click on the photo to order prints.

Crag martins are building a nest in the rock overhanging the path, just a few centimeters from the heads of walkers. What is even stranger is that none of the walkers seem to have noticed, wrapped up in their conversations and time objectives, oblivious to their surroundings. They might just was well be walking around a track in a city sports centre. We turn a corner and suddenly the delight of a cool breeze on a hot summer day. Wonderful!

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Through a few stone arches, one can hardly call them tunnels, yet, and we arrive at the Culiambro hut. By my reckoning we have, so far, come eight kilometers from Poncebos Bridge. There is no way to verily this as the signposts here, to Caín and to Poncebos, are marked in hours, not kilometers. I wonder about the reasoning for this. Different people walk at different speeds so any time estimate is doomed to be totally useless. There is also a path leading off here to Covadonga (nine hours by their estimate). That is the GR-202 which includes the section we have just walked. 

Click on the photo to order prints.
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Click on the photo to order prints.

From here towards Cain the white, red and yellow marks change to just white and yellow, suggesting the route has become easier and that the Covadonga path has now gone its own sweet way, awaiting us another day. And soon another rubbish bin. I wonder if they are both serviced by the same person or whether one walks from Poncebos and another from Caín and never the twain shall meet. 

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The weather is clouding over now, making the way easier and cooler but not so good for photography. 

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Now we cross a series of plain, metal bridges over the River Cares, starting with Puente Bolin. The others do not appear to be named. The river is now on our right side, now again on our left. One of the bridges is covered with wire as a precaution against falling rocks. 

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As the day wears on, the trail becomes clogged with walkers, many wearing trainers and carrying brand new, virginal, walking staffs. Be warned, I also passed an abandoned, severed, trainer sole. Boots are essential here, don't be like that poor pilgrim who had to hobble back with bare and blistered feet. Navigating around people who thoughtlessly insist on walking two abreast, oblivious to the sheer drop on one side, provides for an exhilarating experience too. I am sure for many of them its just a physical excursion and they take no time to appreciate the beauty of this wonderful place. 

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As we get closer to Cain, the trail meanders through a series of damp, dripping, dark tunnels (a torch would be useful here).

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Following the white and yellow marks we soon come to the small hydro-electric dam at Cain.

Click on the photo to order prints.
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Click on the photo to order prints.
Across a small bridge, past a gift shop only selling tourist junk and into the village of Cain. Several people are bathing in the river. 
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Walk through the village, past bars and a couple of hostels, until we reach a t-junction were we turn left. Some people stop in Cain for the night, as I did on a previous occasion. If so I most certainly do not recommend Hostal La Ruta for reasons I discuss in another article

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The Cares Route now follows the road out of Cain, heading towards Posada de Valdeón. Don't blame me, I didn't design the route, its just the way it is. Carry on up the road, dodging traffic, until you come to a fascinating artifact from the past. A wolf trap (Chorco de los Lobos). It is a round tower built into the hillside, with a opening at the back, at ground level, through which the wolf enters, presumably after bait, or maybe it was driven, there is a wooden, funnel structure behind, a bit like a duck decoy. Viewed from inside, this opening is high up, we are on a hillside remember. So from here the wolf falls or jumps to the floor. There is also a metal door in the front through which it was removed, presumably after it had been shot. This is in a heavily wooded area called La Carrona which is well worth exploring on another occasion. 

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Next we come to Teja Oscura, and Fuente Teja Oscura, with a sign warning that the water may not be fit to drink. You must bring enough water on this route as there is none available anywhere on the path. And then a very welcome sign, our track leads off to the left towards Posada de Valdeón. It follows a high path through trees and is a delightful way to end this fascinating and delightful walk. 

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See more pictures of the Cares Route >>>

More great Picos de Europa walks >>>

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Great Books and Maps !

Walking in Spain (general)
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Navigating with a GPS
by
Pete Hawkins 
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Navigation Techniques and Skills for Walkers
by
Pete Hawkins 
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk
Outdoor Guide to Using Your GPS
by
Steve Featherstone 
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Hiking in Spain
by
Stuart Butler
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Walking in Spain
by
Miles Roddis
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk On Foot in Spain. A Walk From the Bay of Biscay to the Mediterranean ... Illustrated by Original Sketches
by
John S. Campion 
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Cycle Touring in Spain: 8 Detailed Cycle Tours
Harry Dowdell 
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
 
Walking in the Picos de Europa
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Walks and Climbs in the Picos De Europa
by
Robin Walker 
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Northern Spain:
10 Circular Walks Around the Picos De Europa
by
Peter Ward, Trish Myers, and Terence Keogh 
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Picos De Europa: Car Tours and Walks (Landscapes)
by
Teresa Farino 
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Trekking and Climbing in Northern Spain
by
Jim Thomson, Ilja Schroder, Jim Thompson, 
and Victor Saunders
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
 

Wildlife books and field guides

Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Flowers of South-west Europe: A Field Guide
by
Oleg Polunin and B.E. Smythies 
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Birds of Iberia
by
Clive Finlayson and David Tomlinson
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Wild Spain: 
The Animals, Plants and Landscapes
by
Teresa Farino
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk The Birds of the Western Palearctic
by
David Snow and Christopher Perrins 
 
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Birds of the Western Palearctic: 
A Photographic Guide
by
Hadoram Shirihai and Lars Svensson
 
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk The Advanced Bird Guide: 
ID of Every Plumage of Every Western Palearctic Species
by
Nils Van Duivendijk
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Handbook of the Birds of Europe, Middle East & North Africa, The Birds of the Western Palearctic: 
A Nine Volume Set by the late
Stanley Cramp 
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk DVD-rom: Birds of Western Palearctic (PC/Mac)
Mac OS X, Windows 2000 / XP / Vista 
 
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Where to Watch Birds in Northern and Eastern Spain
by
Ernest Garcia and Michael Rebane
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Where to Watch Birds in Southern and Western Spain: Andalucia, Extremadura and Gibraltar
by
Ernest Garcia and Andrew Paterson
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Birdwatching on Spain's Southern Coast: 
Costa Del Sol, Costa De La Luz, Almeria, Donana
and Some Inland Sites
by
John R. Butler
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk A Birdwatching Guide to Southern Spain
by
Malcolm Palmer and John Busby 
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Wildlife Travel Map of Spain Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk The Golden Eagle
by
Jeff Watson and Keith Brockie
 
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Golden Eagle: Sovereign of the Skies
by
Charles Preston and Gary Leppart
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk The Golden Eagle (Shire natural history)
by Jeff Watson and John Love 
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk The Sparrowhawk
(Shire Natural History)
by
Ian Newton
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Other Shire Natural History guides Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Barn Owls:
Predator-Prey Relationships and Conservation
by
Iain R. Taylor
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Collins Birds of Prey
by
Benny Gensbol and Walter Thiede
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
 
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk The Pocket Guide to the Birds of Prey of Britain and Europe
by
Peter Hayman and Rob Hume
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
       
Pay in GBP - Amazon.co.uk Understanding the Bird of Prey
by
Nick Fox
Pay in USD - Amazon.com
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